The last time at Little Falls it was a little rainy and we didn’t get much climbing in.Â Yesterday was really great.Â We got to the cliff and saw a ton of people. there were ropes everywhere.Â Uh oh.
We walked around looking for something to set up.Â There was a moderate route in the middle that wasn’t taken so we dropped our stuff, I walked to the top of the cliff and examined everyone’s anchors on the way to our route. I like to make sure that everyone else has nice solid anchors just in case we wind up hopping on someone else’s rope.Â I can count a half dozen times I’ve seen setups that I wouldn’t hang my camera off of.Â Everything was all good and I set up our anchor and went down.
Everyone else was really friendly and we wound up doing a ton of climbing all over.Â A guy I know at the gym showed up with his climbing partner.Â He set up an 11 that me and him both worked on and couldn’t finish.Â It was pretty fun nonetheless.
We stayed from about 10am to 3pm — a good amount of climbing.
It was Friday.Â There I was, just working comfortably in my cubicle, when I get a call from Andrew. He suggested we go climb at Cannon Mountain this weekend and do a long route. But first, he wanted to go down to the Gunks during the late afternoon to climb a little bit on Saturday before heading out to Cannon on Saturday night. Sounds good in theory.
We got to the Gunks at 2pm, I lead the first pitch of Son of Easy Overhang (5.8, 2 pitches), and Andrew did the second. We then walked over to Dry Martini (5.7, 2 pitches), which I’ve been looking to do for a while. It had one particularly hard move and the rest was fairly easy and uninteresting. I see the reason that it’s not highly recommended in the guidebook.
After the walk in, the two routes, getting down off the two routes, and the hike back out, it was 7:30pm (Andrew climbs incredibly slow). Back at Andrew’s house it was almost 9:30pm. I dropped Andrew off at his house and went back to mine, threw some stuff together and laid down on the couch napping and waiting for Andrew to show up. He showed up at 10:30pm, we headed out to Saratoga Springs to pick up Nick, and then headed off to New Hampshire.
We got to the Cannon Mountain parking lot at around 4:00am. It was windy and cold, too bad I forgot to bring pants. I thew my sleeping pad on the grass, got into my sleeping bag and tried to get some sleep. Ritwik arrived at 5:00am, we had our team. We ate some breakfast, organized the gear, signed in to the climbers log at the trailhead, and finally got going at around 7:00am.
Ritwik and I headed over to do Moby Grape (5.8, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III) , and Nick and Andrew headed over to do the Whitney-Gilman Ridge (5.8, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III). The approach over the talus field took about 25 minutes (a far cry from the 2 hours that Andrew said it would take). We waited about 20 minutes at the base for the party ahead of us to finish the first pitch.
Ritwik lead the first pitch quickly, and I followed quickly. The wind was whipping and it was still quite cold. I got the second pitch of some easy fourth class scrambling. Ritwik got the third pitch, the “triangular roof”. Getting over the roof wasn’t too bad of a move actually, although myself leading it would have been rough. I got the fourth pitch, the “finger of fate”, a very large detached flake and very airy moves. I got off route and set up the belay in this annoying cluster of small trees. Ritwik did the next pitch which was an easy gully and then an awkward traverse. He also lead the last pitch which involved an interesting chimney and some delicate and technical slab.
The hike down was a bit rough (but you have to expect that, it’s a climbers trail and not a hiking trail, ie: zero trail maintenance). We passed by the remnants of the old man in the mountain. The work that was done to keep that guy together was quite elaborate. There is still large amounts of bolts and rods holding fairly large boulders to the top of the cliff.
We got down to the base and Ritwik had the idea to go jump in the lake. It was a fairly warm day and man that lake looked good. We jumped in and the water was cold, but not too cold. It was really nice once you get into the sun.
We met Andrew and Nick back at the parking lot at around 2pm, they were all set to leave without us. I’ll have to talk with Andrew about that. That’s not cool. What if we were having an epic?
Andrew had some gear on hold at the IME in North Conway, after what seemed like forever, we got there, got to the store, got the gear, and started the drive back home. At 12:30am I was in my comfy bed and getting some rest for work on Monday.